
Shivala Ghat
Shivala Ghat, Varanasi
There's a ghat in Varanasi that was built by a king for his god, then taken over by another king from Nepal, then confiscated by the British after a rebellion — and through it all, it remains one of the cleanest, most peaceful ghats in the city. Shivala Ghat was constructed by King Balwant Singh of Benares State in honor of Lord Shiva — the god after whom the ghat is named. In the early 19th century, Nepalese King Sanjay Vikram Shah built a palace next to this ghat — a beautiful 19th-century mansion that still stands today. But after the 1857 uprising (in which the ruler of Varanasi participated), the British confiscated the buildings along the ghat, including the palaces of Chet Singh (Balwant's successor). The ghat became a colonial prize, but its spiritual essence remained untouched. Today, Shivala Ghat is inhabited primarily by South Indian Hindus, giving it a unique cultural flavor. The Brahmendra Math (a spiritual center) and the Haveli of King Sanjay Vikram Shah are still standing — the latter now part of the Amritara Suryauday Haveli, a luxury heritage hotel. The ghat is neat, clean, and well-organized compared to others, with excellent facilities for travelers. It's connected to the city through a network of charming back alleys that are a pleasure to explore. If you want to experience Varanasi without the overwhelming crowds of Dashashwamedh or Assi, Shivala Ghat is where you go. It's close enough to Assi (just 1.4 km, a 5–7 minute walk) to be convenient, but far enough to feel like you've discovered something personal and quiet.